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  Wild about Weeds
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Garden blog

Weeds - dispose or reuse?

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​Where possible, we leave weeds onsite to let them to rot down as compost, smother existing weeds, and to save you labour and costs in removing them. Anything we can do to improve the soil’s structure and microbe population is a win. 
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Woolsacks full of weeds for green waste at the tip.
Here's how
Here’s how you can reuse organic matter (anything that once grew) and save yourself effort and money.
Learn to identify the pest, or invasive plants, (ideally when they are small) versus the less nasty weeds that will curl up and die without a fight.
It’s fine to leave the less nasty weeds on top of garden beds or around plants to rot down to improve the soil, which helps hold water and nutrients on your land.

A different approach is needed for the baddies, those that reproduce like crazy using a variety of cunning tricks. For these, you can:
  • Dig or pull them out or rake up (eg tradescantia) and pile in a corner or in a contained compost area. You can cover them with black polythene to speed decomposition and reduce chances of regrowth. If they do regrow, you can spray herbicide on regrowth or manage the edges of the pile while the bulk rots down. You can use on garden once they are definitely dead.
  • Put them in a waterproof container, add water (or wait for rain) and put the lid on. Once they’ve rotted down, you can water the garden with the resulting soup. There’s no guarantee on nutrient value, but there’s nothing to lose.
  • Bag them up and take to green waste
To avoid spreading the types of pest plants you have, have separate piles in each garden area, eg front and back.
More info
To identify pest plants see Weedbusters.
Pests in Wellington region and more general info see, Greater Wellington Regional Council Pest Plants. 
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Ivy is one of the most common pest plants we come across. It grows up trees and shrubs and smothers them. Birds eat the ripe berries and drop the seeds in the bush with a dollop of fertiliser.
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Jungle taming

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Exploring the site

Behind the cottage is a large section going uphill to a flat space with a brazier. These photos are from my first visit. Hover over the pic to read caption. 
Looking up from the patio
Cleavers gone wild

Start clearing and discovering

We gathered our tools on site to start clearing and discovering what was coming through under the weeds. 
We piled the waste on site to make compost and improve the soil over time. There were so many pest plants that it wouldn't have made enough difference to take the  considerable time to remove it all. Worst comes to the worst, we can weedspray the piles later.

New plants

Then we got planting.
Wharangi on the edges. Poa cita grass to hold the bank and for its feathery flower heads. Coprosma kirkii to cover the awkward corner and keep weeds down. Small muehlenbeckia complexa to reduce disturbance to the bank and to cover it. Perennials for colour and to enjoy. Dwarf toe toe to add continuity with existing ones.
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Best fruit trees for Welly

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When on a  recent quest to find out which fruit trees can handle Wellington's climate and produce a good supply of bounty, I was referred to Mel at Brooklyn Community Orchard. 
Volunteers run the 10-year-old orchard behind Brooklyn shops. The land is sheltered by feijoa and lavender plants at the top, and from northerlies and southerlies by fences on either side.
​Right now, it's pruning time and there's a bit of mahi to do to get the trees in shape to produce the best fruit.
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Brooklyn Food Orchard from the top. Fruit trees on both sides of the path.
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​The orchard has good success with the apple, pear, plum and feijoa varieties listed below. These are good options if you're planting fruit trees in Wellington.
Apples
Bramley
Dual Golden Delicious and Royal Gala
Early Strawberry
Merton Russet
​Monty's Surprise
Sturmer
Tydeman's Late.
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Tydeman's late apple variety in Brooklyn Community Orchard.
​Pears
Bert’s Special
Doyenne de Comice
Stark’s Crimson.
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​Pl​ums
​Billington
Damson
Dual Black Doris and 
Hawera
Reine de Claude.

Feijoas
Apollo
Unique

Wiki tu.
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Pear tree Doyenne de Comice at the orchard in Brooklyn.
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Dual plum tree. Two types on one rootstock: Black Doris and Hawera.
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Freshly harvested feijoas
Why not get involved with your local community garden. Lend a hand, share your knowledge and learn from others. All while enjoying some fresh kai and connecting with others. 
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Winter garden activities

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Winter in the garden is just as busy as other seasons. There’s always something to do to keep plants healthy and weeds under control. For us,  it's mainly about pruning and planting right now - and weeding, always weeding.
This month we’re weeding then gathering any fallen leaves and using them as mulch in the garden. Also sowing cover crops in bare areas for all the great reasons mentioned in this blog post.
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Gathered fallen leaves as mulch. When we trim the lavender, we put the trimmings on the garden too. It all helps the soil and consequently, the plants.

​Winter pruning

On fruit trees we're pruning dead, damaged, diseased branches. Then pruning to have space between branches for air and pollination, to  let the sun in for the fruit to ripen and keep the branches reachable for picking. These all help reduce pests and disease. We’re after strong healthy branches with lots of fruit spurs. Check out Kath Irvine’s helpful pruning videos.

We’ve started pruning roses. Lopping off branches that cross and rub as these allow disease to enter the plant through the damaged area. Taking out some of the older branches to encourage new growth and pruning to an outward facing bud on healthy branches. 
After pruning, where there have been pest problems, we’re thoroughly spraying the tree with copper to deal with any overwintering pests. Otherwise we’re spraying the neem oil to deter those nasties. 
Grapes have also been getting pruned, trained and sprayed.
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Espaliered pear at Brooklyn Community Orchard, Wellington.
Planting
We’re planting shrubs and trees. Whether it’s natives for shelter and food for wildlife, or fruit trees and shrubs for homegrown goodies. Now’s the time to get them in.
This is the best time to plant strawberries. Remember they will need protection from birds.

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Green mulch crops

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We've been sowing seeds for green manure crops where there are garden beds not being used or areas where customers are deciding what to plant.
Bare soil invites weeds to make themselves at home, and when it rains, valuable soil and water wash away taking nutrients with them. 
Benefits of covered soil
There are many reasons to sow a green manure crop. To:
  • suppress weed growth
  • reduce rain and wind erosion
  • improve soil structure; deep rooted crops help break up soil
  • Put nutrients into the soil; lupins produce nitrogen
  • attract beneficial insects
  • some you can eat or feed to the chooks
  • green growth looks better than bare soil.
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Green manure seedlings (oats, lupin and peas). These were sown about three weeks ago and are already creating their own micro-environment.
Before cover crops seed
Cut them down or pull them out before they go to seed. Use the stems as mulch or dig it into the soil to rot down and release nutrients for the next crop and improve soil structure.
What to sow
Diversity is the way to go. Each plant has its own benefits, from attracting beneficial insects, to adding specific nutrients to the soil.
Include your cover crop in your vege crop rotation plan. Ie don’t grow plants of the same family after each other.
In winter, we have oats and legumes (nitrogen fixers) such as beans, lupins and various types of peas. There’s also winter-hardy salad crops, such as corn salad and miner’s salad (Claytonia).
Experiment with what works in your area and with your soil. You’ve got a lot to gain and very little to lose. ​​
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Self seeding nasturtium covers the weed heap. This living mulch improves the view, is edible and can also lure cabbage butterfly from your brassicas.
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Autumn garden activities

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A to-the-point list of activities to prepare your garden for winter and the plants for spring. We're talking about pruning, feeding and general care. Plant, sow, reproduce covers planting. 
Remember Wild about Weeds can help you with any of these tasks. 
Prune and trim
Prune shrubs that have finished flowering. Eg hebes, rosemary, manuka, grapes, hydrangeas, lavender, grevilleas, fuchsia. Many of these grow leggy and the lower leaves die. Pruning encourages new growth.
Give hedges a final trim before winter. Remember to leave the bottom wider than the top to prevent bottom branches dying off.
Cut perennials, eg herbs, back to encourage new growth. Poke a few short cuttings in the soil to grow new ones. 
Photinia Red Robin hedge.
Griselinia hedge with a shorter box (buxus) hedge below.
Feed your hard working plants
Spread a quality general organic fertiliser around plants’ dripline as per packet instructions. Water it in before mulching. No need to fertilise plants that don’t like fertiliser. Eg proteas, leucadendron.
Give them some love
Spray plants with neem or other organic pesticide. For deciduous plants after leaves drop is a good time to fully spray plants to deal to any overwintering fungi and other pests lurking in nooks and crannies. 
Mulch or compost plants inc shrubs and trees. This will reduce weeds, improve soil structure and break down into nutrients for the plants. Sow green manure seeds in bare areas.
Don’t waste fallen leaves and prunings. If they’re not diseased use as mulch or put them in your compost. It's all goodness for the soil.
Keep weeding. If you don’t have much time, at least remove flowers and seed heads to reduce spread.
Cooler wet weather brings slugs and snails to deal with. 
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Plant, sow, reproduce

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With more rain and less heat, but enough to keep the garden happy, autumn is a great time to plant, sow seeds , take cuttings or split perennials.
If you have a wood burner or a firepit, you could plant trees to coppice and supplement your delivered firewood.
​Otherwise plant trees and shrubs for shelter, privacy, to bring wildlife into your garden.
If you’re after spring flowering bulbs, get them in now. We’re talking anemones, bluebells daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, snowdrops.
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Plant hebes and ake ake for their many benefits.
Sow seeds
Sow seeds for winter flowers, such as calendula, pansies, wallflowers, cornflowers. Primulas, polyanthus, cineraria will flower in shade if you have a spot for them.
Sow direct until May: cosmos, cornflower, nigella, poppies, sunflowers and sweetpeas. For sweetpeas, chill seed first to give germination a head start. Once growing, pinch heads off to encourage strong side shoots.
For fresh winter veges sow broccoli, broad beans, cabbage, cauliflower, peas. Or give microgreens a go if you’re short of space and not so patient. 
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Sow seeds for your winter greens and more.
Free plants
Propagate woody cuttings like berries, grapes, hydrangeas, currants and roses. See Grow your own free plants
For free plants, divide your perennials such as grasses, irises, sorrel, day lilies, hellebores, hostas, heucheras, achillea. Get more bang for your buck and a better show by grouping them. 
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Autumn is a good time to strike lavender and other cuttings.
Cover bare areas
Finally, if you have any bare areas, sow green mulch such as Kings Green Mulch mix. This helps reduce weeds, then you chop it down before it seeds and use it for mulch. Win-win.
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What's in my garden

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Thought I'd share some photos of plants and flowers in my garden this autumn. 
Flowers
I didn't think there was much colour until I looked properly and saw the flowers blooming. Hover over image for caption.
Native shrubs
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Grow your own free plants

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Autumn is the best time to take plant cuttings and grow some more
This works for many plants you’re likely to have, eg fuchsias, hebes, hydrangeas,  lavender,  rosemary,  succulents. 
My method is a bit of a shortcut as I put cuttings straight in the ground and leave  it to mother nature.
Here's what I do:
  • Choose healthy disease-free stems from top of plant.
  • Use sharp pruners (secateurs) to make a clean cut.
  • Cut stem at a node, ie where the leaf meets the stem. The plant’s hormones are concentrated here.
  • Make the cuttings about 7-15cm long.
  • Remove leaves from the bottom of the cutting ,inc from node.
  • Leave 3 or 4 leaves at the top. If they are large leaves, eg hydrangeas, cut them in half. Remove any buds or flowers. 
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Pelargonium cutting showing nodes
  • Make a hole in ground with pencil or similar, poke the bottom part to above the node into the ground and gently and firmly press soil around it.
  • Water well. Keep moist. 
Hebe cutting in the ground with some compost and water
Rosemary cutting in the ground with compost
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Behind the fence

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My house backs on to a large sports park that slopes down to the road below. The large area between the road and the playing field is wildlands. Lots of rubbish. Lots of pest plants. Some natives.
Just through my back gate are several pine trees from which I gather  cones and firewood.
Wildland behind my place. Firewood foraging. Removing pest plants.
A box of assorted kindling.
Natives coming through
As for native plants, are self seeded pseudopanax, Coprosma robusta and repens, renga renga (probably from nearby gardens).
Pseudopanax, five finger, is one of the first natives to grow in bare areas under a canopy.
Coprosma repens, taupata is common esp around the coast.  There's a row of them behind my fence that the birds enjoy the berries. This particular seedling has extra large  (XL) leaves.
The baddies
Of course there are way more pest plants than natives. I pull out the small ones, if they're too big I break the tops off so they don't seed or spread seed as far. 
The menu comprises bear's breeches/Acanthus mollis, German ivy ( I saw only one plant), ivy, prunus, cotoneaster, broom/Cytisus scoparius and some Norfolk Island pines. 
​Weedbusters has info on how to control pest pants. 
Wild cherry or some sort of prunus. There's a group of these and many dotted around. Pull them out while they are small.
Wild cherry or some sort of prunus from below
German ivy. Just this so far. I will properly remove it tomorrow
Karo, Pittosporum crassifolium. A native but not native to the Wellington region and it takes over
Cotoneaster glaucophyllus
Mulch
Such a pity I can't use the abundant pine needles for mulch or compost in my garden. There's tradescantia and many other weeds among them and I daren't risk them taking a liking to my garden.

​While I'm scrambling around, I lay branches horizontally between trees to create a bit of a shelf. Over time, this reduces soil and water running down the hill  and creates a shelf for seeds to settle and grow.
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Aggies out

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On my walk up my street this afternoon, every other verge had agapanthus, Agapanthus praecox, growing healthily. Definitely the predominant species round these parts. 
Why it's a pest plant
It seeds prolifically, spreads seeds effectively which germinate densely.  Fragments of the roots easily regrow. Plants live a long time and can handle a wide range of conditions and soil types.
Wherever it grows, it forms solid clumps. I've seen layers and layers grow on top of each other. It bullies all other plants out and takes over. 
For information on getting rid of agapanthus see Weedbusters,
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Local natives and weeds

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First day beating the feet during the rahui to save lives and eliminate Covid-19.
I explored part of Sinclair Park, discovering natives and exotic weeds mixed together. And a lovely wildness in the margins.
Some of the natives
Hover over the photo for more information.
Puriri aka Vitex lucens. The berries are important bird food
ngaio  aka Myoporum laetum
Ngaio berries
Mahoe aka whiteywood aka Melicytus ramiflorus
Some of the pest plants I spotted are below.
Wattle or acacia tree
Sycamore aka Acer pseudoplatanus Remember those helicopters as a kid?, Well they help disperse the seeds over large areas.
Life in the margins
Fennel has been left to grow in the margins which is great to attract  beneficial insects and pollinators. The seeds are delicious too
A closer photo of the fennel stalks.
There's a variety of native trees and shrubs along the path. The edges are left to go wild creating an ecosystem of their own.
A wider view, showing a combination of mowed and wildness.
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Back to life

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Second visit to continue work January 2020.
Escalonia near house
Griselinia bear house
Griselinia cut back
Oleander cut from path
Small improvement to harekeke
Camellias looking good
Azaleas slowly improving
Van load of green waste
First visit to start work July 2019.
Photos from the initial visit 24 June 2019 below.
Aggies sneaking in everywhere
Rose needs a good prune
Thrips on azalea
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Spring weeds

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January 2020

Ivy is extremely vigorous and when it comes from the neighbour's, we can't kill it.
Weeded and tidied up the plants here.  They had blown towards the deck.
A wider view of the cleared area after we'd cut back branches and weeded it. We planted some lupins in to fill the space. It might be a bit late, but we may be in luck.
The 'wild' area. We prune back any branches that invade the deck.

Before we started work Oct 2019

Small garden beds back on to a wild area.  We want it to look tidy for as long as possible but some of these weeds are aggressive. 

During and after  our work 

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Comfrey...so good

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Comfrey is a goodie. Get the sterile one, Symphytum Officinale (common comfrey), which is propagated by the root. The tap root goes down deep into the soil to bring up the nutrients to nearby plants. Plant it under your fruit trees with some flowers that attract beneficial insects.
You can also steep the leaves in water for a  health tonic for your plants.
These new plants are going in client's orchard this week.
Contact Wild about Weeds if you'd like us to make the most of your garden.

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Berhampore

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Here's the garden in spring 2019.
22 November 2018
​What a joy to add more to this sunny garden.
See previous photos in our Facebook gallery for this garden.
Convolvulus and arum lilies
Thyme in flower is attracting loads of bees
This bed is so dry and the soil depleted. We've cut the lavender back again as we did last year when it made a comeback.
This is what's left of the previous raised bed. The soil was dry and had no substance. Lots of stones in the bottom and weedmat.
The album below is from October 2017,  just after we started gardening here. You can see how much the plants have grown in the photos above. 
Star jasmine getting started
Cineraria seedlings
Just planted small rosemary and thyme
A very dry raised bed with an unpruned lavender
Arum lilies by the house
Self-sown cineraria seedlings in crack between lawn and path
Just planted this wee cuphea
Just planted this cute fucshia
Existing azalea ready for a prune
Lime green leaves and pale grey magnolia branches.
Spring leaves from magnola
Soil and stones under magnolia tree
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Boring grass be gone

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When I bought my house in April 2016, there was grass, grass and more grass (not even lush green grass) along with a few ornamentals.  Even the soil was lifeless - not a worm in sight.

The ornamentals had to go - they had no real purpose. I like plants to have at least two uses, such as attractive, edible, attract native wildlife, scent, unusual seeds, attract beneficial insects, add nutrients to soil, NZ native - especially those that are local to the area and now rare. 

Since then, I've planted fast growing natives by the fences and areas of wild flowers or smaller native area  to create interest, give privacy and shelter.
Front garden
These photos show how I'm working with nature to add interest and improve the environment for creature. 
​Hover over each photo for the story. 
The spartan front yard in property sale listing April 2016.
In the beginning. The front area when I bought the house in April 2016
Today. The front area southwest corner (top right in first pic) July 2019. Purple akeake, lavender, hebe add colour and create areas for bees and other insects.
NZ Native carex planted along the concrete garden edging, softens the look.
Front garden northwest corner. Purple and green akeake are taller than the 1.8 meter fence. The hebe has stunning magenta flowers the bees love.  The seaweed in front will encourage micro organisms that will decompose the seaweed and make lovely soil.
Georgie cat likes hanging out under the ribbonwood. Her eyes are the same colour as the leaves.
Back garden
The back garden had a raised bed, a dead lawn, and some straggly pittosporums. Photos show how adding plants over time has added colour, life, diversity and more. 
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First reccy on a new job

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A very large house with a small garden area, embedded on a densely housed hill in CBD.
The first job was to see what was involved in refreshing the garden area. We took photos of the various areas, cleared the weeds,  pruned the very old rose right back and created a large compost pile. 
Hover over the photos for explanations.
Weeds in area in front of house. Left of upward path. Not sure if this is client's property
Weeds in area in front of house. Left of upward path. Not sure if this is client's property
Concrete path to be sprayed
Area between our property and next door. No-one's land?
a wider view of the no-one's land area
Looking up from behind the house.
Still behind the house, looking along the wall
Ivy growing over shed can get into cracks and affect building integrity
View from behind the house. Large dead tree
A climbing rose with canker
The very very old climbing rose is now cut back.
Area on rhs facing house. Has an olive tree and rosemary in it. We're considering creating a Mediterranean garden here as it already has suitable plants and is very dry.
The rhs area from the deck. Imagine this with no weeds and some colour
The compost pile we started under the stairs. we're looking at options to contain this.
Looking down to utility area. Weeds to be sprayed
The lhs garden has some natives in it, though they are very leggy as haven't been trimmed for some time. 
We'll add to these.
Another view of lhs bed with rengas along the border and a straggly hebe, we cut several dead branches off it.
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By the beach

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This almost coastal property wants low maintenance plants that keep the weeds down. There are a surprising number of options.  We chose small plants so they get established easily.  Green akeake, red matipou, muhlenbeckia astonii, manuka, coprosma proquina, astelia banksii small silver spear. 
Hover over the photos for captions.
Green akeake towards the back, hope will give some shelter from wind
Red matipou towards the back
Small astelia will fill this space and will probably need splitting.
Another green akeake on the west boundary
Small astelia. I split one of the plants to make three.
Along the north boundary. more Muhlenbeckia astonii - hard to see as they have very small leaves
Parsley seedlings were popping up all over the property. We left many in to grow on.
Hydrangeas now pruned.
We've done most of the weeding. Next step is to select plants and get them in.
Chatham Island for-get-me-not Myosotidium hortensia
Fuschia procumbens hidden by galinsoga weed,
Weeds with libertia and muhlenbeckia
Tiny self-sown hebes.
Native grasses contrast against the weeds
Now weeded.
WIP, weeding in progress
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Restoring the balance

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This Southgate property has a large bush area where weeds had taken over and karaka had become the dominant species, considerably reducing diversity. Although karaka is a NZ native, it isn't native to Wellington and takes over from our locals. Te Motu Kairangi explains more.
We are gradually managing the herbaceous weeds. With the karaka, we are hand pulling the seedlings and chopping down larger plants then Stump Stopping the cut. This seems to be working though karaka does re-sprout from below the cut, so we have to be more persistent than karaka. 
We're careful not to take out too many larger trees at once as the area is on a bank and we don't want to disturb the terrain more than necessary. 
Assessing the bush area Aug 2018
​
Hover over the images to learn about our first visit to this bush area. 
Taller mahoe is a great pioneer plant. Loads of karaka seedlings in front
Bold karaka make their way through the tradescantia
Looking down to a large flat area in the bush
Happy to spot a few self-seeded kohekohe plants
We discovered a few other plants such as this japonica, hydrangeas, feijoas and camellia.
Starting work
First task was to dig some rough steps for safe access and to start dealing to the weeds (tradescantia, convolvulus, galinsoga, bay tree, with old man's beard and German ivy on the fringes).
Rough steps from the property to the bush area
Same steps, but looking up to the house area
Mahoe (Melicytus ramiflorus, whitey wood) in front. Karaka ( (Corynocarpus laevigatus, New Zealand laurel) at the back.
Some creature finds the mahoe leaf tasty
Great to see some self-seeded ngaio (Myoporum laetum)
More of the good fellas, ngaio and coprosma repens
And as we clear we discover more self-seeded kawakawa(Macropiper excelsum).
The flat area with the start of our pile of felled karaka
Continuing our mahi
October/November/December 2018. Hover for explanations
Felled karaka trees. We lay them horizontally between trees. This is to help keep water on the property and gradually form a shelf, rather than have water and soil run straight down the hill off the property.
Here's a sawn then Stump Stopped karaka. We leave some of the stumps quite high to put the horizontal branches behind and to hang on to when clambering around the slope.
Steps from next door property. They're random lumps of concrete and we had to move some of them as unstable
Great crop of galinsoga and convolvulus.
Lovely to discover three or four kohekohe on the property.
Gregor in his element, sawing bossy karaka
Summer 2019
Already we've noticed more birds (types and numbers), seen dragonflies and more native seedlings popping up. 
Now we've made space, let the light in, and it's planting time, we're hoping to plant some 
Wellington natives, ideally those that are getting rare in the wild. This will add to the wider ecosystem and increase diversity in this little piece of bush. 
Making access across the bank having sprayed the galinsoga and tradescantia
Karaka berries plant themselves with damp fleshy fertiliser, giving them a great start in life.
Making access across the bank having sprayed the galinsoga and tradescantia
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